Pigmentarium: The journey of a Czech niche perfume brand

Tomáš Ric, founder & CEO of Pigmentarium, sat down with MAGPAPER to talk about the brand’s journey, what it’s like to be present in an international market, inspiration behind his new creation, artistry & the craftsmanship.

Pigmentarium is expanding their portfolio with a new perfume coming out on 20th March - Brutal is a unique ode to the brutalist culture of the 70s and 80s in the Czech Republic that we learn during our conversation with Tomáš.

How did your journey into perfumery begin? Was there a defining moment that led to the creation of Pigmentarium?

I’ve always been drawn to art and the way it tells stories—its ability to capture human motions, interactions, limits, and even other worlds. At the same time, I’m quite a rational person who enjoys a structured, strategic approach (though you wouldn’t guess that from looking at my desk). When I first discovered niche perfumery, it was love at first sight. It merges everything I’m passionate about and offers endless opportunities to create something truly unique—fragrances that aren’t just worn but become part of people’s lives and stories. It’s such a complex and fascinating field, and I feel incredibly grateful to be part of it.

How would you describe the philosophy behind Pigmentarium?

Uniqueness, quality, and an original approach. We don’t follow competitors or trends. Our inspiration comes from Prague—its subcultures, hidden angles, and creative energy, which we translate into our perfumery. This deep connection to our city also shapes our collaborations, from the paper laboratory where we develop our perfumes to the artisans crafting our packaging and the artists who help define our visual language.

Pigmentarium was the first niche perfume brand to emerge from the Czech Republic. What challenges did you encounter while striving to achieve this?

Yes, we were the first niche perfume brand in our region. The biggest challenge was convincing the local audience that something created here, with deep passion and dedication, could not only be of the highest quality but also succeed internationally alongside globally recognised brands. It took about two years for the Czech market to fully embrace us.

Now, brands that come after us don’t have to go through that same struggle. But I’m genuinely happy to see the local perfume scene evolving and growing in interest.

Where do you draw inspiration for new fragrances? Are there specific places, events, or memories that spark your ideas?

Life itself. It would be a lie to say it all comes solely from me. Ideas take shape through discussions with friends, colleagues, and of course, the perfumers we work with. Take

Brutal, for example—it’s inspired by brutalist architecture from the 70s and & 80s in the Czech Republic, but not just the buildings. It reflects the society, fashion, and bar culture of that era.

Do you have a personal favorite fragrance from the Pigmentarium collection? If so, why is it your favourite?

I always feel like I shouldn’t have favourites, but if I had to choose, it would be our latest creation — Brutal. It’s an explosion of tuberose, ylang-ylang, a Negroni accord, black coffee,

and an extraordinary tobacco note. It’s bold, unapologetic, and full of character.

Pigmentarium brings the scent of Prague to a global audience. How do you balance local artistic expression with international appeal?

It’s a challenge. We stay true to our values and collaborate with Prague’s creative scene, introducing it to the world. But in places like Paris, Berlin, or Milan, Czech culture isn’t widely known, making it harder to connect. On the other hand, that uniqueness sets us apart. An editor at Numéro Paris once told me, “Pigmentarium is raw difference.” That’s the best kind of feedback—when people feel what you’re trying to express without you even having to say it.

Which country was the most exciting to enter, and which one was the most challenging?

Every country is both exciting and challenging in its own way. Each has different standards, people, and cultural nuances. Some markets are more liberal, others more conservative. Right now, we’re expanding into the Pacific Asia region and the Middle East—completely different worlds, each requiring a unique approach. But I have to say, I really appreciate the open market within the EU. Navigating the regulatory process outside of it is a whole different level of complexity. Brands like Pigmentarium wouldn’t survive in isolation—we thrive on openness and being part of a global conversation.

How do you select your collaborators, such as perfumers, artists, and other creatives?

It’s all about values and human connection. If we click, I trust my instinct—it usually means the collaboration will be smooth, successful, and, most importantly, fun. And so far, I’ve been lucky. Pigmentarium wouldn’t exist without the brilliant minds behind it: Théo Belmas, our perfumer; David Ševčík, our creative strategist; Hana Knížová, who I secretly call our head of imagery; sculptor Tereza Štětinová, and many more incredibly talented people.

For readers who may be curious about niche perfumery, what exactly defines a fragrance as niche?

Quality ingredients (which are often rare and expensive), limited production, and most importantly, a unique, artistic vision. Niche perfumery isn’t about mass appeal—it’s about

evoking emotions and telling stories through scent.

How do you see the evolution of Pigmentarium in the coming years?

In the short term, we’re focusing on expanding our network of distributors who truly understand their local markets. Long term, I’m excited about launching new product lines.

As Pigmentarium expands internationally, how do you ensure the brand stays true to its Czech roots while also appealing to diverse global audiences?

It’s a challenge, but the key is staying recognisable while also being relatable across cultures. But at the end of the day, quality doesn’t need translation—and that’s what defines both our perfumes and Czech craftsmanship.

Looking back, what advice would you give to your younger self when you first started Pigmentarium?

Go to more parties. Have fun. And don’t underestimate the importance of taking time off.

What smell evokes the strongest memories for you, and how has that influenced your approach to creating fragrances?

It’s never just one scent—it’s a combination of them. The smell of grass at my grandmother’s house, incense from my trip to Sri Lanka, or even my dog’s skin. Scent is deeply tied to

emotion and memory. For me, perfume isn’t about a list of ingredients—it’s about the feelings it evokes. That’s why, when creating a fragrance, we imagine real-life interactions

and the stories people might tell with it. Take Erotikon, for example—it’s designed to seduce, built around sweet notes and a comforting woody amber base.

What do you hope people feel when they wear a fragrance from Pigmentarium?

Empowered. Abundant. Special—because that’s exactly what they are, BRUTAL

BRUTAL—the name evokes strength, rawness, and elegance. What inspired you to create this fragrance?

You just said it—strength, rawness, elegance. It’s about being bold, present, and having fun with yourself. It’s also about that little devil inside all of us who just wants to spend the night at the bar, flirting with a stranger.

The 1970s and 1980s serve as the main inspiration. What resonated with Pigmentarium’s vision?

The ideal of beauty, international ads that were secretly shared under communism, bold scents, and striking makeup.

How would you describe the atmosphere that BRUTAL captures?

Empowerment. Freedom. Owning your decisions.

Perfumes have the power to evoke memories and emotions. What should BRUTAL awaken in people?

First, shock—the sheer power of florals. Then, that almost-forgotten connection between city life and nature. It’s like stepping from a lush garden into a brutalist building, only to find yourself in a cocoon of warmth, satin, and quiet luxury. You want to dive in. You want to lose yourself.

What was the process of finding the perfect balance of ingredients? Were there moments when you knew you had the final composition?

From the start, we knew we wanted two key ingredients that embodied the 70s and 80s—tuberose in an unapologetically bold dose and the deep, smoky richness of Tobacco Delaire. The floral power in Brutal is unlike anything else. But of course, it needed balance. The floral bouquet is enriched with ylang-ylang and jasmine, softened by delicate white

florals. To add a fresh, almost wild garden-like contrast, we used geranium. And then, as you step inside, there’s warmth—represented by sandalwood, amber, and the depth of tobacco. Théo, our perfumer, introduced this vision during our creative week, and the moment we smelled it, we just knew—it was Brutal.

How long did it take to develop this fragrance, and what was the most fascinating part of the process?

Fourteen months—from the first creative ideas crafted by our creative director, David Ševčík, to the final fragrance being bottled and ready to be worn. I don’t have a favourite part of the process—I love every step. From discussing the initial vision, selecting ingredients, composing the fragrance to shaping the marketing strategy. It’s all connected, and that’s

what makes it so fascinating.

Where will BRUTAL be available, and will it be part of a limited edition?

It’s part of our permanent collection and will be available from March 20th in select stores worldwide and on pigmentarium.com.